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Engine Swap - 2005-03-05 I blew my engine during a track day at VIR in February 05. Instead of trying to rebuild the 2v I've decided to look for an 01+ 4v engine. So far I am looking at the 4.6L DOHC engine from an 01 Cobra or an 03 Mach 1 engine. The 01 4v has C-Heads while the 03 has a better head design that flows more (just like those on the 03 cobra's). Below is a little table comparing the two engines.
I came across a good deal on an 01 Cobra engine with 9k miles on it. It came complete from oil pan to MAF and all accessories. It even came with the computer and complete wireing harness, so I went with that
Removal To remove the engine I decided to 'pull' it from the bottom. I chose to do this because I do not have an engine hoist and I plan on replacing the K-Member anyway with a Maximum Motorsports piece. Also with my plans to install a DOHC engine I have heard it is easier to install them from the bottom. The removal was pretty straight forward. I removed the exhaust, driveshaft and the trans crossmember bolts then unhooked as much of the wires from the bottom as I could. I also removed the power steering lines and A/C lines (that was fun). From top there are a few wireing harnesses you need to pull. The main one is on the back passenger side next to the A/C canister. Then you unhook the battery and ground straps and the wires leading into the Fuse Box (the little clip on the side will slide up revealing access to a nut, just unscrew it).
To drop the engine we sat it on a hydraulic table and strapped it down just to be sure. Then unbolted the 4 bolts on each side and raised the car up. Worked like a charm.
Install
This project will consist of many smaller projects. So far the planned projects are,
The little things that go into putting the engine back in the car will be documented here along with those pictures. For specifics on the above they will have their own seperate page.
A/C Delete The A/C Delete can be purchased directly from FRPP or through an online retailer such as SeanHyland. The A/C Delete just allows you to remove the A/C compressor and run the stock belt. You can also run a 'short belt' setup but I felt that it would be easier to replace the stock belt in the future if I were to ever break one while at the track.
EGR Delete The EGR delete also can be purchased from the same places as the A/C Delete. It allows you to remove the EGR system, this is required to install the Head Cooling mod. The exhaust tube that goes from the EGR to the drivers side exhaust manifold is in the way to install the cooling mod.
Cooling mod For some background on the cooling mod there is a thread on ModularDepot from Jerry of SCT explaining how the coolant does not flow well to provide adequate cooling. The parts required are below:
The Coolant fitting is the same as the one on the passenger side of the DOHC head. It is not oriented correctly. You will either have to grind out the welds, rotate it and reweld or drill a new hole and only mount it with 1 bolt. I chose to drill a hole and mount it with one bolt. Once you get the fitting setup correctly you will need to remove the freeze plug. This can be done by punching a hole in it and bending it out of the way. Now you can install the Ford fitting. Next you need to install the 'T' fitting on the coolant hose coming from under the intake. Once you have cut the line and inserted the 'T' you can measure the amount of hose you need to run from the Ford fitting to the 'T'. Some people direct the hose coming from the Ford fitting to the water crossover for cooling, but either way will help out.
For more information and for info on modifying your existing wiring harness please visit www.cobrapoweredgt.com It is a great resource on swapping a 4v engine into a GT. |
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| (C) 2002 Chad | 2kgt Skin | 2000 Ford MustangGT | |